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Cecilia Buil climbing

 Mountain, rock climbing and canyon guide, the mountain is her life, and so she lives as a pro climber, although she guides during summertime in the French and Spanish Pyrenees, where she lives.

With more than 20 years of experience, her most important ascents are focused on new routes in which dominates the rock, although in recent years the versatility is what makes her stand out: In aid climbing has climbed A5, adding more than twenty  grade VI climbs walls. In free climbing has onsight up to  7b +, and 7c+ redpoint (5.12c and 5.13a). She also ski in winter and put up sport routes ground up.


Ice climbing:

Since 2001 has been engaged in winter with ice, having climbed  up to six hundred meters and WI7 in France, Italy, Slovenia, Switzerland, Norway, Colorado, New Hampshire, Alaska, Chile, Turkey, Southafrica and Canada, among which, by their difficulty : in Ecrins, Violins (180 m, WI5 +), Cigar Txoucky (WI6) L'Tube (WI6) in Rjukan, Jusoyla (180 m, WI6.), Der Graue (WI6), Lucky Lisa (WI6) in Kaunertal, Grottendatch (WI6) ... Also she does, in January 2011, in Chamonix, with Anna Torretta a female ascent of Nuit Blanche (III, 80/120 m., WI6). She climbs in February 2012, leading all pitches, the famous Lipton ice (III, 140 m., WI7)  in Rjukan, Norway. This icefall, with two pitches of WI6 and one of WI7 was considered the most difficult of Norway. Today, becoming a classic, still remains a symbol of the difficulty in ice.

In February 2013 she climbed the famous route of Beat Kammerlander "Marilyn Manson" (IV, 200 m., WI6 +/7), in the valley of Brunnintal, they found it all ice, with sections in poor conditions , with Santiago Padros and Jose Romay .

In February 2014 she repeats test piece Thorfossen (VI, 600 m., WI6) in Laerdal and Double Wammy (300 m., V, WI6) in Norway

In July 2014 opens with Anna Torretta "La Gioconda" in the Chilean Marmolejo valley, VI, 160 m, WI6, at 4100 m.  and an approach of  9 hours on skis.

She opened in January 2015, again with Anna Torretta "Anatolia", 100 m., In Civlizi WI6, Turkey, an impressive and continuous pillar and Sugar Couloir, IV, 450 m., 50-70, WI5, M4 in mountains of Anatolia, Turkey.

In 2016 she does the fisrt ascent of Linx, 100 m WI5R in the Weeping Wall in the Canadia Rockies with Ixchel Foord and Jonh Walsh.

 


Notable repeats and first ascents:

Between 1996 and 2005 he did 12 ascents to El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, including Mescalito, Lost in America (5.10 / A4), Lunar Eclipse (5.10 / A4), Aurora (5.9 / A5) in an all female party, and Zenyatta Mondatta (5.9 / A4).

In 1998 and 1999, first and second ascent of El Gigante, Mexico. He remained 15 and 10 days respectively in the wall.

In 2000 she opened the Lluvia de plata (6b / A4) on the wall of the waterfall in Basaseachic, Mexico. She stayed seven days alone on the wall.

In September of this year she traveled to Yosemite and sets up a new women's record solo climbing  Leanin Tower  "West face" (V, 350 m., 5.10 / C2)  in 11 h. 30 minutes.

In 2001, second repeat in an all female party, of Inshallah (VII, 1300 m., 7b / A1) in 6 days, in Shipton Spire (5,850 m.), Karakorum, Pakistan.

In 2002, new route, Ak Saitan (VI, 700 m., 6a +/A3 +/ 80 °) to Punta Aragon (5,000 m.), West Kookshaal Too, Kyrzgystan and climbing Lurkin Fear (VI, 800 m., 5.10 / C2) in El Capitan at 25 h.

At the end of the year, she makes one of the few repetitions of Mediterraneo in Riglos Fire (300 m., A4) with Elena de Castro. They aid climbed only two pitches, now graded A3.

In 2003, with Roberta Nunes, does the first ascent of Hidrofilia, (VI, 1.600 m., 7a / A2 +) in the world's largest seacliff, Greenland, Maujit Qoqarssasia. They spent 3 days  kayaking 80 Km. on the Artic sea to arrive to the base camp, based in front of the seacliff and started climbing from the kayak.

In 2004, opens a new route in Changi Tower (5,850 m), Karakorum, Anke Asashé (VI, 1200 m., 6b / A3).

2005 Expedition to India in  and climbs Tangerine Trip to El Capitan.

2006 After the winter season, a serious injury to his left shoulder keeps him away from climbing 7 months. It takes nearly a year to return to fully recover.

2007 Expedition to Karakorum, with Miriam Marco, where bad weather and a journey full of obstacles preventing them from  climb the planned wall. In December, he travels to Patagonia, where she tries  Cerro Torre, but, again, bad weather frustrated the ascent.

2008 Expedition to Mount Huntington (3950 m.) With L.Angel Rojo, where she climbed the greatest difficulties of its west face (V, 1000 m., IA5). After 700 m. they came down because the big risk of avalanches in the summit snowfield. On the same trip she opens a new route to a virgin summit. Punta 3246, Corridor NE, Alaska 3700 m, 50/70 In June, she was named by the Spanish Federation of Mountain Sports directrice of the Women's National Mountaineering Team, supported by the CSD, who begins his history in 2009.

2009. He directs the Women's National Mountaineering team until the end of August, at which time travels to try to Patagonia Cerro Torre, but bad weather prevented even an attempt.

2010.Expedition to Charakusa Glacier, Pakistan, with Ruben Calvo and Miguel Anta, where he made a repeat (in the absence of just over 100 m of altitude, by the poor condition of the wall) of  Slovenian route, climbing 1200 m of Southwest pillar of  K7 West in late spring conditions, found the very wet and snowy wall ,.Luna, (VII, 1300 m., 6b + / A2) They opened a variation of five pitches. They remained on the wall during two periods of 4 and 6 days. Also they repeat the classic "Naisa Braak" 5200 m. (IV, 400 m., 6a +)

2012. Expedition Marmolejo valley where attempts Senda Real (WI7 +) with Josito Romay. Bad weather forced them to leave.

2013. Open in October with Tiny Almada her third  new route on El Gigante, Mexico, Tehue, VI, 700 m., 7a / A3, for which remained 11 days at the wall.

In April 2014  returns to Mexico where she climbs  again with Sergio "Tiny" Almada the first ascent of Piedra Bolada, by the west wall, as big or bigger than El Gigante. This new route will cost three weeks, of which two weeks remained continuously in the wall opening Rastámuri, VI, 1030 m., 6c + / A4.

In July, with Anna Torretta opens  Gioconda (VI, 160 m., WI6) in the valley of Marmolejo (Detailed in ascents on ice). This new route will cost three attempts due to the risk of falling ice and stones from noon.

In January 2015, again with Anna Torretta, she travels to the peninsula of Anatolia in Turkey. There she established two new lines on ice: Anatolia pillar (III, 100 m, WI6.) And Sugar couloir (IV, 450 m, WI5.)

In July she travels to Southafrica, where she climbs on Giant Castle and opens a new line, Zulu way, WI5, in the way of searching a new water ice line in each continent, as part of her project “Huellas on ice”. This Project looks for leaving traces only on the snow and the ice, looking for sustainability of climbing and trying to give the message of care for nature and consciousness of climate change.

In November, along with Sergio “Tiny Almada” opens a new route on a big wall very close to her natal town, Huesca, in Peña Aman. “Los Delincuentes” (V, 400 m.7a/A2+)

In 2018, with Anna Toretta and Ixchel Foord , she traveled  to the remote area of Nepal Mugu, where she could open the SW couloir of Mugu, not arriving to the summit, but leaving a line of 600 m, M5/6a to the col (5600 m)

Since then Cecilia has focused in sport climbing and ice climbing, with travels to the ice destinations every season in seek of new routes. She also work as a climbing guide in France and Spain she has being in Canada, the Pyrenes and the Alps, searching ice, guiding rock climbing, bolting a new sector and preparing new adventures to come. 


Conferences:

As speaker, she has done countless conferences and multimedia shows in Spain, France, Chile, Argentina, Mexico, Poland, Italy and EEUU in Spanish, French and English.

Guide:

She started working in the mountains when she was only 21 years old. After some years, she became profesional climbing  full time. On the last years she guides rock climbing during the long season of Spain and reserves the winter for seeking for ice in remote places.

 

 

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